15th May, Day 28, Sumela, Turkey - Batumi, Georgia

We were warned about this border crossing - ex-soviet frontier complete with razor wire, watchtowers and guns. We were expecting a long and tedious wait for all the beaurocrats and power-crazed border guards to let us through.

Luckily, the reality was different. It was all very quick and painless. The woman in the passport control booth was studying the passports so closely she might have been doing her best to find a forgery and I think she was probably disappointed to not find one, but it didn't take too long and then we were into our 8th country.


Our accommodation tonight is a "Luxury Yacht" - actually and old wooden ship of stereotypical pirate-ship design, moored in Batumi harbour, and converted into a hotel.

We all sit on deck drinking Georgian wine. Georgians are very proud of their wine. I can only assume that's because they've never tasted proper wine and so don't know what it should taste like. Imagine Tesco Value 99p a litre in a plastic bottle with "RED WINE" written in bold block capitals on the label, and you have something still rather nicer.

However, a good evening was had by all, as we all had a Georgian Feast, a sort-of Tapas of little dishes shared by everyone. It was all very tasty, although rather more salty than I would have liked. The Georgian Wine flowed freely. After a few, it was doing its job quite well and I didn't mind so much. After all, when in Rome...

Several glasses later, my memory gets a little hazy. I seem to remember getting up on the dance floor and attempting to do Morris Dancing to the traditional Georgian music playing. It doesn't fit, but I didn't really mind. I also seem to remember propozing a toast to morris dancing. After that, it all gets a bit silly.

16th May, Day 29, Batumi - Mestia, Georgia

Urrgh. I feel like shit. I'm in bed by 6pm. Luckily its a proper bed.

17th May, Day 30, in Mestia, Georgia


Still not completely recovered but I'm a lot better than yesterday. It was probably more than a hangover. I soldier on bravely. Today it's a mini-bus ride to a small village supposedly the highest permanently inhabited village in Europe, at about 2200m. Can't remember what it's called but it's only a few miles from the Russian border. It's a long local taxi-bus drive from Mestia on insane twisting tracks clinging precariously to the side of the mountain. The driver takes delight in driving as close to the edge as he can, until he breaks down. Three of us get out and push, but the driver didn't stay in and steer, so the bus neally went off the edge!

Luckily we all got out ok, and we continued to the village. It was muddy and had more pigs than people, and several medieval towers which are very common this these parts - they were used for defence, where women, children and valuables were stored in them for protection whilst the men were fighting off invasion.

18th May, Day 31, Mestia - Noqalaqevi Fort, Georgia

We leave Mestia on the same road as we arrived 2 days ago, the one I missed. For several hours, the truck follows a narrow, bumpy road with a steep rise on the right, and a steep drop on the left, with no barrier. It is spectacular mountain scenery I missed when we came because I was too busy lying on the floor of the truck feeling sorry for myself. I'm glad I got to see it this time.

Some of our group leave us for a while - Kay, Rich and Darrel are catching the overnight train to Tbilisi, Darrel to fly back to the UK to sort some things out at home, and Kay and Rich to sort out Visas. Hope everthing works out OK and they rejoin us when they can.

We arrive eventually at our bush-camp near a Roman fort called Noqalaqevi.

19th May, Day 32, Noqalaqevi Fort - Uplistsikhe, Georgia

A long-ish day on the road to another bush-camp today. Stopped in Kutaisi, a fairly large town, for a couple of hours at lunchtime. I helped out with the shopping there at the market, selling vast amounts of fruit, veg, meat, cheese, and everything else. I helped carry about 50kg of veg back to the truck - tiring work. It was interesting watching Pete (the tour leader) trying to haggle, but he was getting pissed off at the high prices they wanted to charge him compared with what the locals paid.

The evening saw us arrive at the place we were to camp, and nearby there is an impressive cave-city on a rocky escarpment, similar to some of the caves in Goreme, Turkey. Had a little wander round.

20th May, Day 33, Uplistsikhe - Kazbegi, Georgia

First this this morning, I slipped waring my sandals and my toes had a little disagreement with a rock. Luckily, the rock suffered no damage. My toe, unfortunately, was a different matter. I looked at my toes and was a little dismayed to see one of them leaning over at an ungainly angle, being quite unable to move it. I fear I might have profaned at that point.

I hobble onto the truck and Kirsten then gives me a couple of Neorofen to kill the pain and the rest of the group quickly finish clearing the camp so they can get off to Gori, where Pete, Kirsten and Zaza (our Georgian guide and interpreter) get me checked into a hospital to get my toe sorted out. I am quickly and efficiently checked into the impressively titled "Legal Law Person MOD Hospital", which is neat, tidy, clean, modern, and I appear to be the only patient. I guess the average Georgian cannot afford it.

A quick X-ray later shows a nasty dislocation and a tiny break. They pull my toe back into place after a very painful anaesthetic. They want to insert a metal rod, according to Zaza (who interprets for me) but I don't want that, it'll need a doctor to remove it in about a month, and I'll be a long way from here by then, I really don't want the hassle of finding a doctor on Turkmenistan or wherever. So, instead, they plaster it up. I now have plaster all over my left foot coming up almost halfway to my knee. The group members with some medical expertise inspect the X-rays I have been given and all agree that there's no need for all that plaster, but luckily it should be easy for me to remove myself.

The rest of the group bush-camp again tonight and tomrrow night in Kazbegi, but Joy and I check into the local hotel. Camping with my foot in plaster? No thanks!

21st May, Day 34, in Kazbegi, Georgia

Boring day sitting on my arse doing bugger all. Not very mobile.

22nd May, Day 35, Kazbegi - Telavi, Georgia

A long drive through amazing mountain scenery. I'm a bit more mobile today, I've really got the hang of this fast limping, so i can take advantage of the photo opportunities when the truck stops at pretty places.

At mid-afternoon we arrive at our homestay in Telavi, where then evening is spent celebrating Kirsten's Birthday! A good time is had by all. I did not get very drunk, either, not after Batumi, no way.